Wales has a long, proud history of wool production. The rural industry of sheep farming, spinning and weaving were lifeblood trades for rural communities and for a long time represented the largest economic sector in Wales. Around 1900, there were approximately 325 mills operating across Ceredigion, Carmarthenshire, and Pembrokeshire. This is a story often told in the minor key of sadness and loss, but now, while most Welsh mills have gone silent, Elvet, still, remarkably, clatters on …and is getting louder!
Tucked into the Cothi Valley at Cynwyl Elfed, Carmarthenshire, Elvet is one of only 7 working woollen mills left in Wales. Originally established as a tannery, the oldest sections of the mill building date back to 1840. In its early days, a 24-foot waterwheel powered the machinery, but it has long been converted to mains electricity.
Since the early 1980s, the Elvet Mill had been owned and run by Mike Tollput. Under his stewardship, it remained one of Wales’ few remaining weaving mills producing traditional Welsh tapestry. You can see a short clip on the BBC from Kate Humbles ‘Off The Beaten Track Series” in 2017 where she visits Mike at the Mill and he shows her the basics of operating one of the old looms.
In 2023, ever passionate about preserving the welsh woollen industry, he made it clear when he came to retire, at 92, that Elvet would be sold only on the condition that it would remain a weaving mill. In a time when old industrial sites are too often converted into real estate, this was a truly remarkable stipulation, but with very few people possessing the skills, finding a buyer would not be easy.
Daniel Harris of London Cloth has spent the last 15 years rescuing numerous looms and historic machinery from disused or collapsing mills—equipment that would most likely otherwise be lost forever to scrapyards. Having been pushed out of London by spiralling rents, the opportunity to take on Elvet Woollen Mill was one that he could not pass up. With his careful and very skilful restoration work, these looms are now not only weaving cloth again, but now have a home again in Wales and comprise the largest operational collection of historic textile machinery in the UK.
“There are only about 100 working looms left in the UK. Finding people who can operate or repair them is incredibly difficult. We must protect our industrial heritage—because once it’s gone, it’s gone.” -Daniel Harris
The work required to restore Elvet Mill is beyond daunting. The electrics had not been updated since the 1950’s, the building floods every time there is heavy rain and most of the doors and windows are held in only by the moss that has colonised the wood. On top of all this ongoing work, Daniel and fellow weaver Anna have been working their way through boxes and boxes of old yarns that had piled up in oddly assortments. Using these yarns, they have managed to get all of the old machinery repaired, oiled and calibrated to once again produce the highest quality cloth. Last year I had a call from Anna and Daniel at Elvet inviting me to come and see the rolls of tweed that they had finally got back from the finishers. Although at that time I wasn’t able to make space in the collection for another design, I was excited at the prospect.
I returned this year to Elvet on a very soggy day in June. I was at last able to scour their collection for the next Carpenter & Cloth design. What I chose was actually a collection of 5 fabrics. All in British wool with a graphic design that hints a reference to the traditional Welsh double cloth, but woven in a clever twill pattern, to create a much lighter weight, flexible and ultimately more comfortable apparel fabric.
There is limited quantities of each fabric design, so, although I will endeavour to carry at least some stock, our Elvet Jackets will largely be made to order to avoid waste (and disappointment!)
As I was leaving, Daniel told me that the purchase of these fabrics would be directly funding the installation of a 100 year old Pemberton loom in the growing Elvet battery.
You can follow Daniel’s progress at Elvet on their instagram page @elvet_mill_1885 and you can buy our new Elvet Jacket, in the current fabric, through our online shop!
